‘Twas just after 8:00am on Friday morning when I arrived at Mel Evans’ abode in the posh end of Kingswinford, and after loading the van we made our way to Snowdonia. Ironically the weekend was organised by Ken Priest who couldn’t make it because of man flu (as you know ladies is the worst kind!)
On route we stopped off at Pinnacle cafe at Capel for a cuppa and beans on toast where Mel suggested "Bochlwyd Buttress" just up from Ogwen cafe. Neither of us had climbed here before so another tick in the guide could be gained.
Although the day was dry an easterly wind blowing down the valley made us both wrap up. We decided to warm up on a Diff by the name of"Arete and Slab" and finishing on "Two pitch Route". Although enjoying the climbs we were now both feeling the cold and rewarded ourselves with a hot pie at the cafe at Ogwen (which now have heated toilets and information centre, ideal if you need to get changed when raining or winter conditions). After settling into the hut the peace was disturbed by the sound of my strimmer (I know I need to get out more!)
Throughout the night other members started to arrive including Graeme Stanford, Ian Merther, Neil Easter, Guy Harris, Mike Smith and his two sons Ed and Marcus, Dave Covington (Ex Fireman) With Sean (Mate of Daves) Sam Grosvenor and Nick Petrowskey turning up on Sat morn.
After breakfast on a cloudy, dismal but dry day we started the hour drive to Anglesey. As predicted the further west the better the weather and we were rewarded with blue skies with a little cloud. The Crags on Hollyhead Mountain were reached in about 20 mins where teams were split into groups of twos and threes. Neil, Guy and Marcus (poss first climb on rock) Mel with Ed (also on his first climb outdoors), Ian with Graeme and Nick, and myself with Mike who was also introduced to real rock for the first time. Most teams doing several routes each.
We all enjoyed the climbing with the sun cream making an appearance, so lucky! If you’d have been there Ken you would have said it was too warm! After looking through the guide book Nick and myself found "The Elephants Arse" so decided to have a go, but only getting half way up! It seems you can’t penetrate everything!
After about 5 hours climbing and with the Rugby being on TV later we decided to return to hut with the hour’s drive ahead of us. On reaching Beddgelert I jumped out and booked a table for 10 in "The Saracens". Andy (Ex Fireman) and Mary Grosvenor joined us later with most watching the second half of the Rugby in the back room.
After breakfast on Sunday morning Mel, Graeme, Neil, Nick and myself headed up to "Upper Tier" in Tremadog. All doing about 3 climbs each. Neil led Graeme up a climb called "Central Staircase" V Diff..with Graeme thinking I could do that, and ended up leading Neil up same climb, so well done mucker!! We packed up about lunch time and headed home after another enjoyable weekend up "Our hut". So it’s a big well done to Mike, Marcus, Ed and Graeme and all who assisted.